The doughnuts at Frankie's NY Bagels (3750 Harris St., Eureka) are doused in an array of glazes to tempt anyone but that many of the springy treats are vegan is somewhat miraculous. Lime, tamarind and hibiscus sprinkled, anyone? (Tragically, we have yet to make it in time for the crunch-topped créme brûlée before sell-out. And yet options for sweet, fried solace were within reach.)
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But don't overlook the boxes of doughnut holes in the case, brimming with browned nuggets tossed in crunchy sugar or cinnamon sugar ($3.50). Wait, $3.50 for such a small mountain of wholesome joy? In this economy? Firmer than the standard glazed item at a doughnut shop, these skew chewier, reminiscent of Italian street fair zeppoli. Charmingly disregarding uniformity, they are tender inside when fresh from the fryer. Should they cool, don't despair — a few seconds in a microwave will revive them near to their original glory. The glorious smell in your kitchen comes at no additional charge.